Mysticpete's 80' "Refresh".... into the abyss! PIC HEAVY

C3 Photographs; includes engine bays & interiors.

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bfit
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Postby bfit » Wed Sep 17, 2014 9:25 am

mate first the yoke
your t350 yoke will fit ( well all the ones i have see do )
exhaust manifolds
find a set of a l98 engine the outlet is at the rear
they will fit
Bfit

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bfit
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Postby bfit » Wed Sep 17, 2014 8:19 pm

Hi again
http://www.australiancorvettesassociati ... 9ea9a2bb61
Check this posts
There is a few photos that will show you exhaust clearance with l98 standard exhaust
Bfit

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mysticpete
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Postby mysticpete » Wed Sep 17, 2014 8:24 pm

Trudgeo wrote:Lots of work ahead there Pete fw) fw) fw) fw) fw) :-x :-x Hey Bazza, i had the same standard manifolds as what Pete has on that motor........Fitted NO problem??? :shock: :o :)
Enjoy the project......i had standard engine and tranny mounts, but the cross member and mounting plates on the motor were modified to suit, it also helped to raise the motor slightly to clear the upper control arms, you shouldn't have problems with that as you DON'T have the heater lines coming out from the side like I did, by the looks of those photos.I had the stock manifolds and ran 2 1/2' pipes into Turbo mufflers for and AWESOME sounding Vette! :o :) Call me if you want or come over and i'll show all the photos i have and a Video of the last time i had the car, you'll hear how it sounds! :o :)


Thanks George, I will be taking you up on that at some point..... been giving the sand blasters a bashing as they still have not started work yet :x- :x- :x-

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mysticpete
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Postby mysticpete » Wed Sep 17, 2014 8:27 pm

Bazzas77 wrote:that engines from a VT commodore ?


No a 2004 VY WK Statesman Bazza

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mysticpete
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Postby mysticpete » Wed Sep 17, 2014 8:29 pm

bfit wrote:Hi again
http://www.australiancorvettesassociati ... 9ea9a2bb61
Check this posts
There is a few photos that will show you exhaust clearance with l98 standard exhaust
Bfit


Thanks bfit, trudgeo recons he had the same manifolds and they can work, will check this out also?

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DOC
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Postby DOC » Wed Sep 17, 2014 8:32 pm

Sounds like that should push it along just fine.
Not that I would know what a VY WK is anyway. :shock:

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DOC
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Postby DOC » Wed Sep 17, 2014 8:35 pm

The stock manifolds exit in the center, So I can't see why they wont fit.
However, it may depend on how far back you mount the engine.

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Postby Bazzas77 » Thu Sep 18, 2014 7:33 am

Im using the same exhaust as Bob has on his.

George didnt you have C5 exhaust manifolds on yours?

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Postby Trudgeo » Thu Sep 18, 2014 9:25 am

Yes Bazza, mine was a C5 motor, but looking at my photos and of the photos that Pete has posted.......SAME manifolds and exit points! :) :o

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bfit
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Postby bfit » Thu Sep 18, 2014 12:12 pm

mysticpete wrote:
bfit wrote:Hi again
http://www.australiancorvettesassociati ... 9ea9a2bb61
Check this posts
There is a few photos that will show you exhaust clearance with l98 standard exhaust
Bfit


Thanks bfit, trudgeo recons he had the same manifolds and they can work, will check this out also?



there is a set on fleebay at the moment at $25 with cats
bfit

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mysticpete
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Postby mysticpete » Wed Sep 24, 2014 5:33 pm

OK so I checked today and the chassis parts have been sand blasted and sprayed/painted, there are a few colour errors which are being corrected now and hopefully I should be able to pick it all up next Monday......


Image

Image

Image

Image

Then the hard part starts!

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Postby Bazzas77 » Thu Sep 25, 2014 12:34 am

No not the hard part at all , putting nice clean pieces back on a fresh frame is the BEST part! And when you get the motor and gearbox on it it will look fantastic, trust me :o

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mysticpete
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Postby mysticpete » Thu Sep 25, 2014 8:33 am

Bazzas77 wrote:No not the hard part at all , putting nice clean pieces back on a fresh frame is the BEST part! And when you get the motor and gearbox on it it will look fantastic, trust me :o


Thanks for the encouragement Bazza, going to need it I think as I just landed a new contract so this may turn into a big go slow now :) still the much needed funds will help :)

:D

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bfit
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Postby bfit » Sat Sep 27, 2014 6:44 pm

Myst
I'll post some photos the week coming
I have taken a few new ones this weekend
Bfit

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mysticpete
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Postby mysticpete » Mon Sep 29, 2014 5:48 pm

Well, She's back home, mostly, still waiting for the diff and props to be painted the correct colour, but at least I can make a start at putting her back together.

Now then who has a Rear Wheel Bearing Setup Tool I can borrow? or knows the 'Other' way to get the bearings set correctly?

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mysticpete
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Postby mysticpete » Mon Sep 29, 2014 5:56 pm

Guys

I am selling my old 350 with the transmission, what price should I be looking for, it was running all OK in the car, I've just given it a clean up and spray.

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Postby Bazzas77 » Mon Sep 29, 2014 9:19 pm

Looking good, hope you have the second rear wheel bearing carrier . I can only see one in the pictures, btw there IS a left only and right side only one as well.
As for the set-up tool, I have one here but you should be able to get one from a closer source .
Its all the same colour yeah ?

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Ollie68
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Postby Ollie68 » Mon Sep 29, 2014 9:45 pm

Bazzas77 wrote:Looking good, hope you have the second rear wheel bearing carrier . I can only see one in the pictures, btw there IS a left only and right side only one as well.
As for the set-up tool, I have one here but you should be able to get one from a closer source .
Its all the same colour yeah ?


Looking really nice Pete, now the fun begins.
Bazza is spot on there is a left and right side rear bearing carrier as I got mine around the wrong way :evil:
The "D" hole goes to the rear :o

:D
Ollie

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mysticpete
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Postby mysticpete » Tue Sep 30, 2014 10:08 am

Thanks guys, yes I noticed that when stripping, the other one was not finished correctly so got left behind.

All black except the diff and prop shafts which will be grey.

I'm going to respray the springs red.

Maybe Trudgeo has the setup tool?

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Postby Trudgeo » Tue Sep 30, 2014 4:12 pm

NO sorry! :cry: :o

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mysticpete
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Postby mysticpete » Thu Oct 02, 2014 6:29 pm

Last parts have returned to complete the set, Fish oil next!
You do know there only two things that smell like fish..... and one of them is fish!

Image

Image

Image

Image

:) :) :) :mad: :mad: :mad: :D

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riverracer
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Postby riverracer » Thu Oct 02, 2014 8:09 pm

:shock: now that's a mans jigsaw puzzle.... :-x
Speed has never killed anyone,
Suddenly becoming stationary that's what gets you.

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Postby Bazzas77 » Thu Oct 09, 2014 11:43 pm

Nah only a couple of hours work there :-x

Looks like they painted the frame with the fuel lines still on ::

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DOC
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Postby DOC » Sat Oct 11, 2014 10:27 pm

I've looked and looked, No Fuel lines.

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Postby Bazzas77 » Sat Oct 11, 2014 10:48 pm

DhOC wrote:I've looked and looked, No Fuel lines.


The whitish line on top of the frame at the back left side is pretty much where the line(s) would be.

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Ollie68
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Postby Ollie68 » Sun Oct 12, 2014 10:06 pm

Hi Pete,

Give it a really good blow out with compressed air otherwise the sand will still be sitting in the frame rails, then hit it with the old fisholene,
the more you put in the better :o
What changes do you have to do to fit the LS motor to the sbc frame mounts?

:D
Ollie

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Postby Trudgeo » Mon Oct 13, 2014 7:09 am

There should be NO changes to the chassis or engine mounting areas Ollie :o :) only changes are the actual engine mounts on the block :o :) :D

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Postby Bazzas77 » Mon Oct 13, 2014 7:58 am

Trudgeo wrote:There should be NO changes to the chassis or engine mounting areas Ollie :o :) only changes are the actual engine mounts on the block :o :) :D


I got the adaptor plates that "share"the bottom hole, because of that the alternator fit straight in without any clearancing. Plenty of room at both ends of the motor and the 4L /60 fit fine. But you have to use the original steel cooling lines.

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bfit
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Postby bfit » Mon Oct 13, 2014 5:30 pm

The mount that bazzas describes  put the engine in a good  position  
Uses the small block mounts , puts the rear trany mount on top of the crossmember  the engine I'll sit at 2 degs down 
Tale shaft I'll need to be 695mm centre distance between the universals 

Trany mount out of Holden  1 & 3/4" high

I would ave a drawing of the adaptor  for engine mount I you want to make your own 

Bfit

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mysticpete
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Postby mysticpete » Sat Oct 18, 2014 4:42 pm

bfit wrote:The mount that bazzas describes  put the engine in a good  position  
Uses the small block mounts , puts the rear trany mount on top of the crossmember  the engine I'll sit at 2 degs down 
Tale shaft I'll need to be 695mm centre distance between the universals 

Trany mount out of Holden  1 & 3/4" high

I would ave a drawing of the adaptor  for engine mount I you want to make your own 

Bfit


Thanks bfit, I'll come back to this when I actually start to get the units in.


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