Mysticpete's 80' "Refresh".... into the abyss! PIC HEAVY

C3 Photographs; includes engine bays & interiors.

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mysticpete
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Postby mysticpete » Sat Oct 18, 2014 4:52 pm

In the meantime I have a small problem......

The rear Strut bushes have 5/8" sleeve, the mount pin to the rear hub is also 5/8" so a nice fit, BUT the camber adjuster pin is 1/2" so there is a lot of play in the sleeve, This does not seem correct to me, can someone confirm for me?

Thanks

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Image

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Postby Bazzas77 » Sun Oct 19, 2014 8:25 am

I can confirm thats wrong , it should be a snug fit for those camber bolts.

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Ollie68
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Postby Ollie68 » Sun Oct 19, 2014 10:19 am

It looks like your missing the strut rod caps.
This will give you the nice fit you are supposed to have. Check all your bits and pieces for two washers with shoulders like the ones below.
There is a pair of washers for each side in the camber adjustment only.
http://keenparts.com/pages/detail.php?cat=0&diagram=44019&partnum=440200&year=1965

:D
Ollie

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Postby mysticpete » Wed Oct 22, 2014 5:02 pm

Ollie68 wrote:It looks like your missing the strut rod caps.
This will give you the nice fit you are supposed to have. Check all your bits and pieces for two washers with shoulders like the ones below.
There is a pair of washers for each side in the camber adjustment only.
http://keenparts.com/pages/detail.php?cat=0&diagram=44019&partnum=440200&year=1965

:D
Ollie


Thanks Ollie, yes I realised from answers on another post.......

Mistake Number 1. NEVER throw anything out until you have replaced it or confirmed you don't need it :evil: :evil: :evil:

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mysticpete
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Postby mysticpete » Wed Oct 22, 2014 5:22 pm

New parts arrived for the engine swap today, the new Holley Oil pan and Hooker LS1 engine mounts.

Image

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I also received the rear wheel bearing tools consisting of a Grease packer, Rear suspension spindle and wheel bearing setup tools.

Image

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bfit
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Postby bfit » Wed Oct 22, 2014 5:38 pm

Mate those engine mounts brackets will but the engine a long way backwards and high.
I would like to know how deep the sump is 200mm back from front of engine . Also where are you intending to mount alternator
A commodore mounting for alternator will sit the alternator on the rear of the bottom LH control arm

You engineer will want 10 mm clearance minimum to frame and may be more to any sterring component
Bfit

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Postby Bazzas77 » Wed Oct 22, 2014 7:31 pm

I agree it going to be a real tight fit, probably going to have to mod your frame with those brackets. Does the holley sump have the two bolt holes to lock the bellhousing as well? I think the brackets I have were called "neutral"as in no offset for the engine.

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Postby Ollie68 » Sun Oct 26, 2014 1:30 pm

mysticpete wrote:
Ollie68 wrote:It looks like your missing the strut rod caps.
This will give you the nice fit you are supposed to have. Check all your bits and pieces for two washers with shoulders like the ones below.
There is a pair of washers for each side in the camber adjustment only.
http://keenparts.com/pages/detail.php?cat=0&diagram=44019&partnum=440200&year=1965

:D
Ollie


Thanks Ollie, yes I realised from answers on another post.......

Mistake Number 1. NEVER throw anything out until you have replaced it or confirmed you don't need it :evil: :evil: :evil:


Hi Peter,

If your replacing the bushes with energy or a similar brand they do come with the correct size washers to press in for the camber adjustment end.
:D
Ollie.

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Postby bfit » Mon Oct 27, 2014 9:25 am

Mate photos

Image

at full lock 17mm clearance
clearance under alternator 11mm minimum
Bfit

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photos

Postby bfit » Mon Oct 27, 2014 10:03 am

Image

Image

Image
some info
Bfit

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Postby mysticpete » Thu Nov 13, 2014 7:56 pm

Thanks for the photos bfit, the mounts will put the engine in the stock location, I have read on the LS1 site a way of mounting the engine so that the Alternator can remain sitting low, this way does not cause any other issues, but I will be checking first. I am replacing the steering with a Borgeson all in one box so there should not be any clearance problems. The sump is the one all the guys use in the states.

Not much progress recently due to work commitments. will get some photos up in the next few days.

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Postby mysticpete » Tue Dec 23, 2014 10:17 am

Hi all, the latest updates can be found here http://corvette1980.blogspot.com.au/p/blog-page_3.html

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Re: Relay Rod

Postby mysticpete » Fri Apr 17, 2015 11:52 am

Hi Bazza

Been trying to pm you but my email is not sending? anyway I'm looking for a MANUAL relay rod, would you have one at all?

Thanks in advance
Pete

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Re: Mysticpete's 80' "Refresh".... into the abyss!

Postby mysticpete » Fri Apr 17, 2015 12:31 pm

So after a Long break from the forum it's time I updated everyone on here....

LS1 SWAP Status

Whatever your car is, even if it's the same model as mine or someone elses, it would appear that everyone's LS1 ends up in a slightly different position.

First the issues:

a) Engine brackets were (of course) wrong, so sent them back for the 3" forward version, this put the engine in the exact location as to allow me to fit the drive shaft on in standard form.

b) Have to adapt the transmission mount slightly, not a big issue tho

c) The F-type accessories for the alternator were too tight, so...

d) Researching the Accessory brackets available (of which there are a few) and identifying what if any accessories I will have to buy?

e) R4 compressor pulley will need changing from V-type to 6-groove… or change the existing Delphi A/C from 4 groove to 6 groove?

e) The replacement Holley oil pan was incorrect also, by one number in the part, so had to get that changed out as well.

f) The Relay Rod STILL hits the sump where the hole for the old power steering piston seats. I have to find a Non power bar.

g) The Statesman headers were of course no good, so started to look for a new set from the states, ended up having a great piece of luck by obtaining a set of used Camero headers from an exhaust specialist, PLUS an all new ceramic coated exhaust system, Bonus!

Now the To Do list (short term):

a) Need to research an oil stick for the new sump

b) Researching an acceptable fuel system, either in-tank pump or external.

c) Choose a new set of gauges to replace the old set

d) Swap the injector rails round so that the input is on the passenger side.

e) Sort out the engine loom and integrate into the existing one for the new gauges

f) Source a suitable electric fan, something in the 3000cmf range.

Questions:

Do the in-car selector panel settings match up with the new 4L60E gearbox selector when the shifter is selecting?

Bodywork:

a) Stripped the old black gunk from the underside messiest job so far!

b) Lined the underside tunnel with heat reflective insulation.

To Do:

a) Seal the underside insulation joins

b) Spray the engine bay and underside with a paint refresh

That’s all I need to do for the body for now.

Chassis Rebuild:

As can be seen below, a lot of work has gone on here…

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mysticpete
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Re:

Postby mysticpete » Fri Apr 17, 2015 3:03 pm

bfit wrote:The mount that bazzas describes  put the engine in a good  position  
Uses the small block mounts , puts the rear trany mount on top of the crossmember  the engine I'll sit at 2 degs down 
Tale shaft I'll need to be 695mm centre distance between the universals 

Trany mount out of Holden  1 & 3/4" high

I would ave a drawing of the adaptor  for engine mount I you want to make your own 

Bfit


Hi Bfit

Can I get that drawing of the tranny mount from you?

Thanks
Pete

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Re: Mysticpete's 80' "Refresh".... into the abyss!

Postby DOC » Sat Apr 18, 2015 7:33 am

Wow, Lots going on.

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Re: Mysticpete's 80' "Refresh".... into the abyss!

Postby australi » Sat Apr 18, 2015 8:50 am

OMG that's a GREAT price for the electroplating!! :D :o

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Re: Re:

Postby bfit » Mon Apr 27, 2015 9:25 pm

mysticpete wrote:
bfit wrote:The mount that bazzas describes  put the engine in a good  position  
Uses the small block mounts , puts the rear trany mount on top of the crossmember  the engine I'll sit at 2 degs down 
Tale shaft I'll need to be 695mm centre distance between the universals 

Trany mount out of Holden  1 & 3/4" high

I would ave a drawing of the adaptor  for engine mount I you want to make your own 

Bfit


Hi Bfit

Can I get that drawing of the tranny mount from you?

Thanks
Pete


Pete
I'll do someting for you
And post
Stile working out the new formate here
Bfit

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Re: Mysticpete's 80' "Refresh".... into the abyss!

Postby Bazzas77 » Tue Apr 28, 2015 9:41 pm

that sump has a step DOWN right in the wrong area and I would say that's not helping your problem of interference.I used the Camaro sump which I tested with my rhd set up (ford steering box and ford relay rod with similar helper hydraulic piston set up as standard corvette) and had enough clearance but ended up with a rack,n pinion as well.

Definitely go with the borgeson set-up, its a real good upgrade

I know someone who has a manual relay rod , I can see if he wants to sell it and how much if you still want

if your car has a 4 speed auto in it now your shifter/cable set up will be fine but mine had a 3 speed and I got a kit from usa and welded it in ,its just the detent plate that needs changing .

I wouldn't get to hung up on the tranny mount, put the engine/box in and see what you need to do , you might only need to use some 12mm plate to make it work.

I kept all the original type gauges going on mine, if I were to do it again I would change a few things as there some newer ways to "skin the cat" nowdayz .

as for the rest of your list to do....yep :-x

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Re: Mysticpete's 80' "Refresh".... into the abyss!

Postby mysticpete » Tue May 05, 2015 11:30 pm

Thanks Bazza for the words of wisdom, I'm learning lots but making mistakes which cost money and time in the short run.

So here's the photo blog of where I am now...


Bearings, seals and UJ brackets, all supplied via Dennys Drive Shaft

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The UJ's were not the easiest of items to install, make sure you remove any
paint from the inner mount points.

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Image

Installing the bearing races

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Replacement upper A-Arms, these are from VBP and give an extra 5 degree adjustment

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A completed front hub

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Getting the spring and hub onto a frame that has no weight of the engine is a bit of a challenge, but possible. Ensure you use the correct spring compressor and not the duff one I used!

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Having the scissor hoist is a great asset to aid in back pain relief!
The press came via Total Tools and was a very good price.

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A shot of the new A-arm in place

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Boxes of fixings all labelled for sizes

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The new power steering box from Borgeson arrives

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A simple swap, no issues.

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Mounting the rear diff, no problems here either
complete with new front mount rubber and bolt set.

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Installing the bearing races and checking hub fitting into the trailing arm.

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Reassembly is straight forward for the brake pads.

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Finalising the rear hub assembly.

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And the completed rear trailing arms.

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Installing a trailing arm

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New rubber mounts for the rear gas shocks

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Steering linkage installed, I went with the Borgenson steering upgrade, a few people had recommended this, hope it's worth the money :)

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These are just to confirm the position when refitting the pads
as I am about to strip the callipers for respraying.

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The Callipers turned out real nice, fitted new O-rings between the two halves.

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I got the fuel tank sitting in place, 1) so I could pump all the fuel out and 2) to start preparing the new inboard electric pump and filters that will supply the LS1. I will clean this up before putting it back in.

Image

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Re: Mysticpete's 80' "Refresh".... into the abyss!

Postby CraigH » Wed May 06, 2015 6:28 am

Lots of progress and looking great.

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Re: Mysticpete's 80' "Refresh".... into the abyss!

Postby Trudgeo » Wed May 06, 2015 5:08 pm

Going great guns there Pete, keep up the great work and the photos coming! :) :o :o

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Re: Mysticpete's 80' "Refresh".... into the abyss!

Postby DOC » Wed May 06, 2015 5:36 pm

:o looking very nice indeed Mate!

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Re: Mysticpete's 80' "Refresh".... into the abyss!

Postby Bazzas77 » Thu May 07, 2015 10:36 am

Looks real good, what pump are you going to run in the tank? I used a vt commodore one in my set up, but I put the whole plastic "bucket"in my tank. Your tank would use the 82 vette fuel pick up which had the electric pump anyway, just a matter to add the higher output one and your done.

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Re: Mysticpete's 80' "Refresh".... into the abyss!

Postby Bazzas77 » Thu May 07, 2015 10:41 am

Make sure to torque those 4 bolts between the rear bearing carriers and the trailing arms, one on your pic doesnt look tight enough :-)

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Re: Mysticpete's 80' "Refresh".... into the abyss!

Postby mysticpete » Sat May 09, 2015 4:15 pm

Bazzas77 wrote:Make sure to torque those 4 bolts between the rear bearing carriers and the trailing arms, one on your pic doesnt look tight enough :-)


haha, no there were loose when I took that one :o

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Re: Mysticpete's 80' "Refresh".... into the abyss!

Postby mysticpete » Sat May 09, 2015 4:17 pm

Bazzas77 wrote:Looks real good, what pump are you going to run in the tank? I used a vt commodore one in my set up, but I put the whole plastic "bucket"in my tank. Your tank would use the 82 vette fuel pick up which had the electric pump anyway, just a matter to add the higher output one and your done.


Hi Bazza, yeah I really looked at this a lot, in the end I decided to adapt what there was, I'll post a few pics....

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Re: Mysticpete's 80' "Refresh".... into the abyss!

Postby mysticpete » Mon May 11, 2015 2:14 pm

So, while I was waiting for parts, I got on with refurbishing the seats, gave them a nice clean, respay and fitted the new cushions and seat backs, I was really pleased with the results.

The old seats were in pretty good condition at first sight

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After stripping the seats from the shells I then primed and sprayed the shells.
All the hinges were stripped and regreased

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The new seat cushions and backs come out and assembly gets started

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The first one finished, Fantastic look!

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And here are the two, complete with refurbished runners.

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Really pleased with these. :D

I did quite a bit of research on the new fuel system, in the end I decided to adapt the existing setup and add my own in-tank pump, from what I can see there should not be any problems with fuel starvation, however I added a new holley Hydramat https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/hydramat/parts/16-105 to the setup to be sure.

so here is what I did, cut and flared the fuel line hose and added a pump, I used a waterproof seal for the pump wires, retaining the origonal sender unit, however I thoroughly recommend servicing the sender and testing Before you put it back in.

Image

Image

Image

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Re: Mysticpete's 80' "Refresh".... into the abyss!

Postby DOC » Mon May 11, 2015 6:05 pm

Looks really good to me. Pump is up to the higher pressure I presume.

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Re: Mysticpete's 80' "Refresh".... into the abyss!

Postby Bazzas77 » Mon May 11, 2015 7:05 pm

Looks very neat pump set up, that hol ley mat sounds like a good idea.


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