Resto Project - Inferior Interior, Ready Set Strip!

C3 Photographs; includes engine bays & interiors.

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Wed Jun 20, 2012 8:49 pm

Not to mention adding a blocked url list on my computer for willcox , zip and corvette america, so i can visit the sites!

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Thu Jun 21, 2012 1:20 pm

Seat Armrest trims begin sprayed...Bit of a pain for masking, particularly around the curves. Lets see how it comes out...

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Thu Jun 21, 2012 1:22 pm

Stripped and cleaned the seatbelt bezels, and shot them with royal Blue

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Thu Jun 21, 2012 1:29 pm

Seat trim finished. and installed back in seat. this need to go back in before the seat back strap assembly. didnt worry about the internal bracket..too hard to get at, and when seatbelt is back in, you want see the Bar etc

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Fri Jun 22, 2012 8:43 am

OK, time to clean up other parts of the drive seat to start.

Seat Back strap and housing had surface rust, so need to get rid of it, and also replace the seatback chrome button as well while this part is out of the seat.

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Fri Jun 22, 2012 8:50 am

Clean up the housing for the seat strap

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as well as the seatback strap bracket that attaches to the seat then i gave the bracket a coat of killrust satin black. Looks a little more presentable now

Before

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After

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CraigH
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Postby CraigH » Fri Jun 22, 2012 2:38 pm

What rust converter/cleaner did you spray on the rusted parts to remove the rust.

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Sat Jun 23, 2012 2:26 pm

Hi Craig,

I use Ranex Rust Converter from Bunnings Warehouse. By bondall I think it is.
About 19 bucks for a 500 ml spray bottle.

I find it very good. Bottle says it kills stops and converts rust. as I said, I have used it on a few things and they come up nice. Spray on and leave for 24 hours.

Cheers
Glen

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Mon Jun 25, 2012 11:00 am

Finished off re spraying my other door skin

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Mon Jun 25, 2012 4:03 pm

Also stripped old Door Glass Rear Weatherstrip cleaned stainless, and installed new ones...not the best photo to show it, but they look really good

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Wed Jul 11, 2012 8:31 pm

finally got time to finis my passangers Seat.
Re did all the hardware,
New Bezel and Seat back release button,
restored seat back and resprayed,
stripped seat tracks and resprayed,
New seat bumpers etc lower (metal) and upper (rubber) .
Strip and sprayed and polished the seat back release strap and lower bracket.

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Wed Jul 11, 2012 8:37 pm

Also got onto the other door skin and door hardware on passenger side.

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Wed Jul 11, 2012 8:45 pm

I had a doggy Drivers outer door handle, and it finaly stopped working. So I ordered a new outer door rod and pin. Man, these are a pain in the bacon to install.
Go it and, and now works great.

But

As usuall, something else rasied its ugly head. The door opens and closes great using the outer door handle now, but now, when I lock the door, it wont unlock.

So guess I am now forced to take the whole locking mechanism off and inspect and fix it !!..

And while its off, might as well clean it all up


New outer door rod installed
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New outer door rod installed

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Mon Jul 16, 2012 10:01 pm

Drivers Door outer door handle
Well I had the drivers door outer handle working with the new rod etc. Great ! But when I was testing the door lock etc, I noticed that since the new rod went in and outer door handle was fine but if I locked the door, and then tried to unlock it, it would not unlock. It seems that the door lock mechanism was getting caught on something or something bentor not right..Should of taken the whole lot out in the first place !! :evil:

That will teach me to be lazy !

So out comes the door lock mechanism. While this happened, I was putting an order in with Willcox, so decided to order a new lock, and if I fix the existing one, then I have a spare !!. or it will go on Flee Bay better to ordr with the other stuff, instead of waiting to see.

So rods and clips taken off, then screws out. With window up the lock slides down easy.

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Taking the access cover off the door at electric window motor and lock slides easily out of here

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Mon Jul 16, 2012 10:05 pm

Heres the Drivers Door lock mechanism out of the car. Finished cleaning it up and evaluate the mechanism for catching issues, and/or where the problem lies.

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Mon Jul 16, 2012 10:09 pm

Finished off the Passanger door trims. Put on new door lock knobs, and restore the other trims

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Mon Jul 16, 2012 10:44 pm

Oil Pressure Gauge Line.

Mmmmm

Youll remember some time back I finished restoring the gauge cluster, and rest of the interior dash, was happy with everything, including the oil pressure line. Finished most of the core interior and refitted, ensuring oil pressure line was fitted correctly, so does not spew oil inside my nice new interior.

Well I was doing a little tinkering on the weekend in the engine bay, and a general clean, and noticed a very small amount of oil around the oil pressure line at the connection to the fitting at the block. upon close inspection, the oil pressure line has weekened at this connection, and in fact, a little wiggle, and the line snapped off !!

So looks like Ill be replacing the oil pressure line now !! with a new one and feeding it back into the dash, and pulling the dash and cluster apart to connect to the gauge...bugger. !

Ive got the old Copper Line, with a rounded brass fitting crimped on the end of it to seal against the fitting when screwed down.

Tried to see if I could buy just a collet for the end of the existing one, as i have enough extra to reattach if I could. But cant seem to see one

What are peoples thoughts on the cooper lines verse the newer plastic ones ? are these likely to be more brittle over time ?
The copper line will be less likely to leak, and if pinched will seal itself rather than spewing hot oil onto the driver and passenger ?/


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St Leon
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Weatherstrip Piller posts font

Postby St Leon » Mon Jul 16, 2012 10:51 pm

Most of my weatherstrips were in good condition. Howerver, replaced the rear window weatherstrip earlier, as well as the rear door glass ones.

last ones that really need replacing are the forward, pillar post weatherstrips.

Started to strip the old ones off and clean up the area.

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Mon Jul 16, 2012 10:53 pm

Maybe Ill get this interior finished and back together one day !

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Trudgeo
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Postby Trudgeo » Tue Jul 17, 2012 7:42 am

Hey Glen,
looks great, try a brake shop or a hydraulic shop for collets, you'll find some here somewhere.....maybe even Autobahn :)
As for nylon verses copper, Copper will eventually crack due to it becoming brittle with all the flexing but ,so will the nylon with heat, degreaser over a period of time.....I guess it's up to you as to what you want to do or go with, if you get the collets, fix it :)

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Postby CraigH » Tue Jul 17, 2012 7:46 am

St Leon wrote:Oil Pressure Gauge Line.

Mmmmm

Youll remember some time back I finished restoring the gauge cluster, and rest of the interior dash, was happy with everything, including the oil pressure line. Finished most of the core interior and refitted, ensuring oil pressure line was fitted correctly, so does not spew oil inside my nice new interior.

Well I was doing a little tinkering on the weekend in the engine bay, and a general clean, and noticed a very small amount of oil around the oil pressure line at the connection to the fitting at the block. upon close inspection, the oil pressure line has weekened at this connection, and in fact, a little wiggle, and the line snapped off !!

So looks like Ill be replacing the oil pressure line now !! with a new one and feeding it back into the dash, and pulling the dash and cluster apart to connect to the gauge...bugger. !

Ive got the old Copper Line, with the soldiered ? end on it to seal against the fitting when screwed down.

Tried to see if I could buy just a collet for the end of the existing one, as i have enough extra to reattach if I could. But cant seem to see one

What are peoples thoughts on the cooper lines verse the newer plastic ones ? are these likely to be more brittle over time ?
The copper line will be less likely to leak, and if pinched will seal itself rather than spewing hot oil onto the driver and passenger ?/


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Hi Glen

Mine was plastic line when I got it but I replaced it with a new one while dash was out.

Its black nylon with brass fittings.

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From NCRS forum it looked like big block for 68 C3's onwards had copper plated steel lines while small blocks had nylon.

Kit is available from vendors but yes it will be a pain to open it up again and then have to align it all again.

I wonder if a place that sells compressors and air gear may have the ferrules needed. I cant see how solder would be used just a ferrule that compresses when tightened.

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sirfixalot
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Postby sirfixalot » Tue Jul 17, 2012 8:18 am

Perhaps heat the last couple of inches of pipe to anneal the copper should be good for another 40 plus years

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Tue Jul 17, 2012 8:50 am

Thanks George,

Yeah each has it's weaknesses, copper coated steel lines get brittle over time, and so do the plastic ones. Will have a look around to see if I can get a collet to fit it.
fw)

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Tue Jul 17, 2012 8:57 am

Cheers for the info Craig
Looks like it has been replaced in its life as I have the cooper steel line, but no big block ! Perhaps I should put in a big block to match the line!

I will shop around for a ferrule/ collet and see what happens, but,
Given that it was doggy at the fitting, and for piece of mind, I think, even though it's a royal pain in the ***, I will replace the line, and refit everything. Practice makes perfect ! Should of done it in the first place

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98lux
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Postby 98lux » Tue Jul 17, 2012 10:34 am

Looking good Glen.
1968 L36 4 SPEED hmm Big Block
1969 454 4 SPEED hmm Bigger Block

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Postby riverracer » Tue Jul 17, 2012 6:05 pm

i replaced mine with a new nylon line i bought thru a vendor.... i figured that if it lasts another 40yrs i'll be happy
however i dropped 1 of the ferrules, couldn't find it even after sweeping the floor many times
so just went super crap auto and bought a kit from there and used the brass bits in their kit
the pimply faced kid behind the counter didnt even know what i wanted, he said all gauges are electric..... :-x
Speed has never killed anyone,
Suddenly becoming stationary that's what gets you.

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YLLA 88
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Postby YLLA 88 » Wed Jul 18, 2012 7:04 pm

St Leon wrote:Finished off the Passanger door trims. Put on new door lock knobs, and restore the other trims

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Smick as St Leon, I want two :) :) :) :)

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Wed Aug 22, 2012 8:55 pm

Hi all,

Will be posting more photos of my progress shorty.

Can anyone point me in the right direction in sourcing some fusible link wire. I want the orange coloured one that sits in line of the ammeter that is located under the wiper motor connected to the two reds etc. Want the same colour (orange) and gauge ?

Anyone ?

Glen

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98lux
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Postby 98lux » Wed Aug 22, 2012 11:30 pm

1968 L36 4 SPEED hmm Big Block

1969 454 4 SPEED hmm Bigger Block

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Thu Aug 23, 2012 9:26 am




Hi Dave,

thanks for the info. Yeah tried those guys, but he replied and said that its hard to get these days and they dont have any !

Glen


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