Resto Project - Inferior Interior, Ready Set Strip!

C3 Photographs; includes engine bays & interiors.

Moderators: DOC, MR.WOLF, australi, smackC4

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DOC
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Postby DOC » Mon Feb 03, 2014 10:09 pm

Looks great!
A blast cabinet will like a whole lot more than 10 CFM.
The Compressor I had in my Shop Back in the states was 21 CFM.
And still you had to stop and wait .

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Mon Feb 03, 2014 10:27 pm

Yeah Doc, hearing you loud and Clear !!!

I think if i can get one round the 17CFM that should be good enough for the parts I want to do, and will have to be patient while doing it and limit my swearing !!

Bazzas77
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Postby Bazzas77 » Mon Feb 03, 2014 11:56 pm

I use the same type of cabinet here with a 270 L/min (free air ) compressor hooked up to it .

this is what ive done to mine

I hooked up my shop vac to it to create a negative air space so theres no dust inside or escaping through the door seal

i also use a half inch feed line to the cabinet and a larger one than original inside with the smallest nozzle on the gun .

it does well with just the right amount of garnet in it , too much and it bogs it down. it doesnt need to be stopped as it never goes down below 90psi . I have the open bag next to the door with an aerosol can cap in it and just add one full one as needed.

i also ditched the little fluoro light and put a flood light in there so I can see to get it back to white metal without stopping and opening the door all the time .

I also use those disposable examination gloves to keep the fixed ones from filling with ...well you know what, soup!!!

most important is to degrease everything , or wrap up the greasy bits before putting it in there , if you dont you will atomise the grease and spread it everywhere and you wont see a thing until you drop all the media and then degrease all the insides clean . its a real pain to do it trust me.

the biggest part ive put in mine was some 68 seat frames , they just fit ::

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Thu Feb 06, 2014 8:06 pm

thanks for the tips mate.

Yep, have a half inch feed line already used on it, with a water trap right as the airliner enters the cabinet.

Haven't tried it with less garnet in bottom, but will experiment with that as you suggest.

Been using the smallest nozzle and that did help.

Yep, and read previously about using disposables while using the gloves so they don't turn to "soup".

Yes, very important to clean the parts before hand so all the grease crap doesn't end up all over the inside of the cabinet.

Have a shop Vac, just haven't got around to hooking that up yet .

But thanks Bazza for the Tips, and will setup to give them a crack !!

Cheers Mate

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Sat Feb 15, 2014 7:26 am

How devistating. Sink hole swollows rare corvettes. Would break you heart!

http://www.stuff.co.nz/motoring/news/97 ... -Corvettes

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Sat Feb 22, 2014 8:04 pm

Got around to finishing striping the Jack, and the Handle. Came up well.

Jack handle has some pitting , but once its primed and shot with paint it will look good, and at least its the original jack and jack handle.


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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Sat Feb 22, 2014 8:12 pm

Also bought a sign to hang in the garage !!

Always good to have a theme ! Cant afford another Vette, so a chevy sign will have to do !!

Image

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DOC
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Postby DOC » Sat Feb 22, 2014 9:40 pm

Nice!

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Sat Feb 22, 2014 10:24 pm

The Drivers door window has been playing up a bit lately, and the alignment is off.

When I re- did the interior for the door skins and driver lock etc, I didn't worry about doing any restore on the door glass mounting, tracks, outer door felts etc etc. but i did install new A pillar and B pillar seals.

Now that the drivers window is acting up, it time to pull all the hardware and window out, and replace the rollers, mounts, clean and grease the tracks, and replace the outer felts, and then enjoy the fun and games of putting it back in and playing the alignment game. Lets see how frustrating that can be!! Have the GM manual and Haynes shop manual that takes you through the adjustments, but have read a lot of people have trouble getting the glass just right.

Need to clean up the inner door skin, and put some new noise / water barrier on as well.

I Let you know how it goes once I have everything out and cleaned / replaced. Need to place an order first for the bits.

glen
.
Image

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DOC
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Postby DOC » Sat Feb 22, 2014 10:32 pm

The Glass adjustments are not really to bad, with a bit of patience.
You can tilt it in and out and adjust the height front and rear. It's just that one adjustment seems to affect another. Just take your time.

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Sat Feb 22, 2014 10:56 pm

Hi Doc,

yeah thanks. I think that will be the key when I get to it...Very small adjustments (one at a time) and be patient !!..

May send you a PM if I get stuck !

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Sun Feb 23, 2014 12:32 am

Ok,

Ive pull the window glass, tracks and the out felts...Time to assess every component, and start cleaning them all up, and put in an order for new rollers etc.


To get everything out easily, I removed them in this order

1. Obviously, inner door panel and lock.
2. Removed the door glass anti rattle adjustment pads
3. Removed the outer weatherstrip seal and moulding. gotta lower the window to get access to the three screws.
4. Removed the front and back vertical channel stops.
5. removed window regulator black access cover.
6. Positioned window back up to gain access to the horizontal lower glass channel retaining screws.
7. Loosened the front and rear glass run channels to the outer most position to allow room to remove the glass from the lower glass channel and slide up and out.
8. Slid the lower glass channel off the regular arm rollers and up and out the rear glass runner channel.
9. Removed the front and rear channels.

Have let the regular in at moment, but will be taking that out later. I start cleaning and accessing what i have out thus far.

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Sun Feb 23, 2014 12:33 am

:C

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DOC
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Postby DOC » Sun Feb 23, 2014 7:56 am

looks like your off to a good start.

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Wed Feb 26, 2014 9:26 am

One of the reasons that the drive door glass was misbehaving was the front vertical roller had disintegrated

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Wed Feb 26, 2014 9:26 am

Got some time to begin clean up the door window parts. Did all the retaining nuts, washers, and parts for the rollers as well as a couple of the tracks. Looking like new !


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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Wed Feb 26, 2014 9:30 am

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Wed Feb 26, 2014 9:39 am

Removed the window actuator and motor as well.
Will replace the rollers, spring and gearing etc on this. Will look at costs of parts vs new actuator, maybe easier.

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Wed Feb 26, 2014 9:44 am

Cleaned up and polished the outer weather strip retaining / garnish.

Need to get to work on the actuator and the front channel still needs doing.
Then put in an order for parts and then wait.

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Fri Feb 28, 2014 12:09 pm

Managed to get the other bits of the door cleaned and stripped ready to go back in one I have the new door parts

Image

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Fri Feb 28, 2014 12:12 pm

Window regulator is out, and have drilled out the rivets holding the rollers on the arms, and the gear.

Will get a new gear as the existing one, already has had the gear repair kit added to it, which is another stainless gear mechanism bolted to the end of it..
Will ask get a new motor gear assembly to renew the motor

Image

Bazzas77
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Postby Bazzas77 » Fri Feb 28, 2014 8:55 pm

the motors are the same as the hq wb holden so the gear assembly you can find local .

just the plug connections are slightly differant

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riverracer
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Postby riverracer » Fri Feb 28, 2014 10:03 pm

the following holden motors will fit HK-HT-HG-HQ thru to WB
only difference is the connector, vettes are "T" shaped and holden "="
nothing that a jumper lead wont fix

all covered on pg 4 of "the work begins/continues" thread
Speed has never killed anyone,
Suddenly becoming stationary that's what gets you.

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Sat Mar 01, 2014 8:29 am

Hi guys,

Thanks for the info, muchly appreciated!

I will not be replacing the motor as this is still strong,
Was going to replace the gear while i had everything out.
I am ordering some other stuff for the regulator and such from states anyway and the gear replacement will only cost me $30 dollars (includes the current 15% discountvim getting) to add to the shippment, so wil just get from there.

Will replace the gear plate on the regulator andvthe gear on the motor.

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Sat Mar 01, 2014 8:41 am

Hey riverracer,

Did you replace or still have the water vapour barriers for your door?

Thinking of making some up from the floating hard floor underlay, as depending on the material, have water resistance, noise resistance and are light weight.

Anyone worried about this?

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St Leon
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Postby St Leon » Sat Mar 01, 2014 8:41 am

fw)

Door vapour water barriers.

I understand the original vapor barrier was a brown waxed paper. Paper deteriorates. I have seen other after market vapor barriers made of simple plastic, plastic causes moisture and condensation which leads to rust. And neither product stops the hollow door echo sound.

Anyone added these or used other material , like the wooden floor underlay stuff??

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riverracer
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Postby riverracer » Sat Mar 01, 2014 10:20 am

mine were just a sheet of plastic film

didnt bother putting back in as they were full of holes anyway

liking the idea of the flooring underlay, K:
Speed has never killed anyone,

Suddenly becoming stationary that's what gets you.

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CraigH
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Postby CraigH » Sat Mar 01, 2014 1:12 pm

I have a. Set of the plastic ones I picked up a month back.

It's fairly thick plastic.

Not sure I will use them as I may go with dynamat on the door.

Have already put its in the door.

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riverracer
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Postby riverracer » Sat Mar 01, 2014 1:30 pm

just a after thought,
when i bought my heat insulation pre-cut kit, it came with 2 pieces for the doors, 2 sided foil closed cell bubble wrap like stuff
didnt put it in on the doors tho
(web site photo)
Image

was just over at bunnings and they have the same type of stuff, silver or gold under floor underlay
This QEP Premium Gold underlayment is 3mm thick and has moisture barriers that offers sound reduction.
Underfoot comfort, 3mm foam thickness corrects minor sub-floor imperfections
Mould and mildew resistant

they also had a fabric/felt like underlay as well
Speed has never killed anyone,

Suddenly becoming stationary that's what gets you.

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CraigH
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Postby CraigH » Sat Mar 01, 2014 3:09 pm

Is it self adhesive ?


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