the work begins / continues

C3 Specific - Technical and Performance

Moderators: DOC, MR.WOLF, australi, smackC4

User avatar
riverracer
*Senior Forum User
Posts: 1423
Joined: Sat Sep 04, 2010 1:14 pm
Location: adelaide, south oz

Postby riverracer » Tue Jan 07, 2014 8:37 pm

i couldn't move the arms easily when they were bolted to the car, they felt fairly firm
ie: move the arm and it stayed put

was only going to replace the parts as i didnt want to have to pull everything apart down the track
Speed has never killed anyone,
Suddenly becoming stationary that's what gets you.

User avatar
DOC
*Gold Class Member #777
Posts: 3696
Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2008 12:41 pm
Location: Rocky QLD Australia

Postby DOC » Tue Jan 07, 2014 8:39 pm

You can Never say that!

Bazzas77
*Gold Class Member #269
Posts: 2300
Joined: Wed Apr 11, 2007 12:01 am
Location: Cooloongup Western Australia

Postby Bazzas77 » Tue Jan 07, 2014 8:48 pm

up to you when they get done

but it is easier when the motors not there as you know :o

User avatar
riverracer
*Senior Forum User
Posts: 1423
Joined: Sat Sep 04, 2010 1:14 pm
Location: adelaide, south oz

Postby riverracer » Tue Jan 07, 2014 9:15 pm

almost forgot the show the other painting i've been doing
the finished firewall, "i hope"
Image

the front end
Image
Speed has never killed anyone,

Suddenly becoming stationary that's what gets you.

User avatar
DOC
*Gold Class Member #777
Posts: 3696
Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2008 12:41 pm
Location: Rocky QLD Australia

Postby DOC » Tue Jan 07, 2014 9:16 pm

Looks great in the photo's! :o

User avatar
Ollie68
Posts: 432
Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2013 8:29 pm
Location: Geelong, Victoria

Postby Ollie68 » Tue Jan 07, 2014 10:12 pm

They would have to be one of the worst springs I have ever had to remove. You need an internal spring compressor and they arent availible at super cheap or auto bahn. I ended up making a plate and threaded rod to compress the spring just to get it out. I fitted Pedders springs which are about 2" shorter than the stock ones and is less to compress when you put it back together.
The engine bay paint looks great :o and if you do the same on the A arms and the chassis it will look superb :o :o

:D
Ollie

User avatar
riverracer
*Senior Forum User
Posts: 1423
Joined: Sat Sep 04, 2010 1:14 pm
Location: adelaide, south oz

Postby riverracer » Tue Jan 07, 2014 10:22 pm

Ollie68 wrote:You need an internal spring compressor and they arent availible at super cheap or auto bahn. I ended up making a plate and threaded rod to compress the spring just to get it out.

tell me about it, i bought std one from supercrap, no way would it fit.
i just used a floor jack under the arm, and had a solid rod down thru the shock hole to stop it incase it sprung out sideways
so over the next few days after i get sorted back at work, and sort my foreigny's out, i'll make a plate with rod as well.
Speed has never killed anyone,

Suddenly becoming stationary that's what gets you.

User avatar
DOC
*Gold Class Member #777
Posts: 3696
Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2008 12:41 pm
Location: Rocky QLD Australia

Postby DOC » Tue Jan 07, 2014 11:25 pm

An Internal coil spring compressor, (Like the one I own), can be purchased from Summit racing for about 30 bucks guys.

ozziedropbear
*Senior Forum User
Posts: 227
Joined: Thu May 16, 2013 8:22 am
Location: Canberra, ACT

Postby ozziedropbear » Wed Jan 08, 2014 8:40 am

Ollie68 wrote:They would have to be one of the worst springs I have ever had to remove. You need an internal spring compressor and they arent availible at super cheap or auto bahn. I ended up making a plate and threaded rod to compress the spring just to get it out. I fitted Pedders springs which are about 2" shorter than the stock ones and is less to compress when you put it back together.
The engine bay paint looks great :o and if you do the same on the A arms and the chassis it will look superb :o :o

:D
Ollie


You will have to let me know what you think of the pedders springs. I have them in but no weight on them, even with the engine and trans in they are holding the front end up against the bump stops. Hope once it is all together it is fine.

User avatar
rbware
*Senior Forum User
Posts: 58
Joined: Thu Oct 27, 2011 6:15 am
Location: Adelaide

Postby rbware » Thu Jan 09, 2014 12:24 pm

Engine Bay looks good :-P

User avatar
Ollie68
Posts: 432
Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2013 8:29 pm
Location: Geelong, Victoria

Postby Ollie68 » Thu Jan 09, 2014 8:52 pm

ozziedropbear wrote:
Ollie68 wrote:They would have to be one of the worst springs I have ever had to remove. You need an internal spring compressor and they arent availible at super cheap or auto bahn. I ended up making a plate and threaded rod to compress the spring just to get it out. I fitted Pedders springs which are about 2" shorter than the stock ones and is less to compress when you put it back together.
The engine bay paint looks great :o and if you do the same on the A arms and the chassis it will look superb :o :o

:D
Ollie


You will have to let me know what you think of the pedders springs. I have them in but no weight on them, even with the engine and trans in they are holding the front end up against the bump stops. Hope once it is all together it is fine.


Bugger :shock: , I haven't put the bump stops in yet :? I'm just a little way behind you so I'll be curious once the body is back on. They were alot easier to put in than the originals 8)

:D
Ollie

User avatar
riverracer
*Senior Forum User
Posts: 1423
Joined: Sat Sep 04, 2010 1:14 pm
Location: adelaide, south oz

Postby riverracer » Tue Jan 14, 2014 9:29 pm

delivering the parts to the engine builder on saturday, complete with the required lubrication :-x

Image

ordered a howards hyd roller cam last night,
complete kit with cam, lifters, timing chain, springs & retainers and cam button, 1150$ :shock:
Speed has never killed anyone,

Suddenly becoming stationary that's what gets you.

User avatar
Ollie68
Posts: 432
Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2013 8:29 pm
Location: Geelong, Victoria

Postby Ollie68 » Wed Jan 15, 2014 1:48 am

Looks like you have a set of late fuellie heads as part of the original motor. 8)
The casting number will tell you exactly what they are :o

:D
Ollie

User avatar
CraigH
*Senior Forum User
Posts: 1835
Joined: Sun Nov 01, 2009 8:28 pm
Location: Canberra
Contact:

Postby CraigH » Wed Jan 15, 2014 8:27 am

Hey River, I think you will need a little under 5 litres of lubricant for a SBC.

That little bottle wont do :-)

User avatar
bfit
Posts: 334
Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2011 11:42 am
Location: picton NSW

Postby bfit » Wed Jan 15, 2014 9:16 am

riverracer wrote:delivering the parts to the engine builder on saturday, complete with the required lubrication :-x

Image

ordered a howards hyd roller cam last night,
complete kit with cam, lifters, timing chain, springs & retainers and cam button, 1150$ :shock:


that look just about rite
one bottle a day
Bfit

User avatar
riverracer
*Senior Forum User
Posts: 1423
Joined: Sat Sep 04, 2010 1:14 pm
Location: adelaide, south oz

Postby riverracer » Wed Jan 15, 2014 3:41 pm

Ollie68 wrote:Looks like you have a set of late fuellie heads as part of the original motor. 8)
The casting number will tell you exactly what they are :o :D
Ollie

good spot, they are a set of june 19th & 23rd 1970 - 186 double hump with 1.94/1.5 valves, guide plates and studs std, 64cc.
hardened seats were already installed when i got them but they are virgin un-ported.
only going to do a bowl cleanup and a bit of gasket matching, new bronze liners and new valves.
they are to replace the 72cc smogger heads that were originally on the engine.
will help to bump the compression up from the lousy 8.5:1 to the around 9.8:1 we are aiming for.
Speed has never killed anyone,

Suddenly becoming stationary that's what gets you.

User avatar
riverracer
*Senior Forum User
Posts: 1423
Joined: Sat Sep 04, 2010 1:14 pm
Location: adelaide, south oz

Postby riverracer » Sat Jan 18, 2014 5:39 pm

wire brushed, sanded, cleaned and primed the front suspention arms today
Image

pvc endcap with a hole so i didnt get paint n grease all over the ball joint, didnt disassemble them as they are still riveted on
Image
i always over complicate things, must be the engineer in me

for the first coat, they dont look too bad, will 2nd coat tomorrow
Image
Speed has never killed anyone,

Suddenly becoming stationary that's what gets you.

User avatar
Ollie68
Posts: 432
Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2013 8:29 pm
Location: Geelong, Victoria

Postby Ollie68 » Sat Jan 18, 2014 7:15 pm

I hope the missus didnt have the washing on the line at the same time :shock:
:D
Ollie

User avatar
riverracer
*Senior Forum User
Posts: 1423
Joined: Sat Sep 04, 2010 1:14 pm
Location: adelaide, south oz

Postby riverracer » Sun Jan 19, 2014 2:06 am

don't have a missus, that's why i bought a vette :-o

didn't notice b4, untill i looked at the photo's, the heat last week has really killed off the grass :shock:
it was very green a month ago.....
Speed has never killed anyone,

Suddenly becoming stationary that's what gets you.

User avatar
DOC
*Gold Class Member #777
Posts: 3696
Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2008 12:41 pm
Location: Rocky QLD Australia

Postby DOC » Sun Jan 19, 2014 8:12 am

Same thing in many ways,
If it has tit's or tires, sooner or later it'll give ya trouble!

User avatar
YLLA 88
*Gold Class Member #444
Posts: 1193
Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2008 5:01 pm
Location: WOLLONGONG, N.S.W. Australia

Postby YLLA 88 » Sun Jan 19, 2014 8:26 am

Looking good River, that inlet manifold looks no standard what did you end up going with ?

Jethro

User avatar
riverracer
*Senior Forum User
Posts: 1423
Joined: Sat Sep 04, 2010 1:14 pm
Location: adelaide, south oz

Postby riverracer » Sun Jan 19, 2014 8:14 pm

it's just a edelbrock performer 2101
just have to remove the branding so it looks stock
Speed has never killed anyone,

Suddenly becoming stationary that's what gets you.

User avatar
riverracer
*Senior Forum User
Posts: 1423
Joined: Sat Sep 04, 2010 1:14 pm
Location: adelaide, south oz

Postby riverracer » Sat Jan 25, 2014 11:13 am

here's a run down and update on the weeks crappy events for those who missed the daily's (just a cut n paste from them)

1st
i give up on painting :evil:
painted the cross member the other week with a brush, looked crap
craig suggested the foam brushes, so i scuffed everything back again,
clean and wiped down, quick spray of primer, and 5 min later......
it's all crazed up where the paint was,
web site says the primer can be used on top of previously painted surfaces, using same brand as the paint, so should have been ok


so i contacted WhiteKnight paints yesterday for a response....

Because you sprayed onto the Rust Guard Epoxy Enamel while it was still fresh and in the drying and curing stages the
All Purpose Primer is higher in spraying thinners and solvents and will react with and cause the paints to bubble or craze off the surface.
We recommend applying to All Purpose Primer to pre-existing painted surfaces that have been there for a long period of time.


so then i asked how long does the paint actually take to dry?

The answer to your question is determined by how long it takes for the slow evaporating solvent in the brush on paint to fully evaporate.
There are too many variables to predict this precisely as the actual time is determined by the thickness of the remaining paint,
the temperature, humidity and air movement.
A thin layer of paint in optimum drying conditions may be fine in 7 days. Heavy coats in less than ideal conditions may take several weeks.


:shock: they dont tell you that on the can or tin of paint :x-

2nd stuff up..
on the 13th jan, i bought a howards roller cam and lifter complete kit from an ebay shop 1140$
asked last week (16th jan) for a tracking number, they said it should ship last fri (17th jan), no problem...
still hadn't heard from him by last nite (22nd jan), checked ebay, HE's GONE, shop n all.
the listing has gone from my purchase history, karnt contact him as the emails to him and the site just bounce.
rang ebay, started a dispute/claim with paypal, but they gotta wait 10 days and try to find him first.


havent heard any more from ebay, but it's in their hands now

so that's where i'm at at the moment, drinking
havent been in the shed since tues nite, car? what bl00dy car??
Speed has never killed anyone,

Suddenly becoming stationary that's what gets you.

User avatar
CraigH
*Senior Forum User
Posts: 1835
Joined: Sun Nov 01, 2009 8:28 pm
Location: Canberra
Contact:

Postby CraigH » Sat Jan 25, 2014 12:14 pm

Wow things are not going too good.

I can certainly say the paint crazing can occur if the new paint has stronger solvent, saw it on engine enamel I used.

The answer they gave was very legal like....though.

I went through a dispute with an ebay person for a $500 remote and in the end I got it back, just took a long while while ebay ask the other side to respond, wait 10 days etc etc etc

Not a good run mate.

User avatar
riverracer
*Senior Forum User
Posts: 1423
Joined: Sat Sep 04, 2010 1:14 pm
Location: adelaide, south oz

Postby riverracer » Tue Jan 28, 2014 7:40 pm

well part of my order turned up today, :<>
was direct shipped from howards cams factory, according to the address on the box

Image

just hope the rest, timing chain, springs & retainers, seals, push rods, etc, arrives soon from the ebay blokes shop
at least the dear parts have made it :<>
Speed has never killed anyone,

Suddenly becoming stationary that's what gets you.

User avatar
riverracer
*Senior Forum User
Posts: 1423
Joined: Sat Sep 04, 2010 1:14 pm
Location: adelaide, south oz

Postby riverracer » Tue Jan 28, 2014 8:20 pm

the old worn hyd vs new roller lumps

Image
Speed has never killed anyone,

Suddenly becoming stationary that's what gets you.

User avatar
nifty
*Gold Class Member #427
Posts: 7472
Joined: Fri May 26, 2006 12:01 am
Location: whyalla, South Australia

Postby nifty » Tue Jan 28, 2014 9:27 pm

riverracer wrote:for the first coat, they dont look too bad, will 2nd coat tomorrow
Image


you painted your jocks on the left didnt ya ... :-)

User avatar
riverracer
*Senior Forum User
Posts: 1423
Joined: Sat Sep 04, 2010 1:14 pm
Location: adelaide, south oz

Postby riverracer » Fri Jan 31, 2014 3:39 pm

the remainder of the parts showed up today, everything except the stem seals and some assembly lube. :x-
guess i karnt complain, at least the packages turned up, direct shipped again.

Image

found out yesterday that my crank is stuffed, mains and rod journals are ok, but the thrust flange faces are worn undersize
they looking for a good 2nd hand from the crank grinder, or can buy new scatt for 400$.
Speed has never killed anyone,

Suddenly becoming stationary that's what gets you.

Bazzas77
*Gold Class Member #269
Posts: 2300
Joined: Wed Apr 11, 2007 12:01 am
Location: Cooloongup Western Australia

Postby Bazzas77 » Sat Feb 01, 2014 8:20 am

riverracer wrote: or can buy new scatt for 400$.



so its not to late to go 383 then ?

User avatar
DOC
*Gold Class Member #777
Posts: 3696
Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2008 12:41 pm
Location: Rocky QLD Australia

Postby DOC » Sat Feb 01, 2014 3:39 pm

There's no replacement for displacement!


Return to “Third Generation C3 (1968-1982) Technical and Performance”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests